Our homes are our most valuable asset. Investing in our homes not only brings return on investment, but also provides protection, safety and security to our loved ones and our possessions. Replacing a roof or siding can be expensive. Many of us are saving for our children’s education, retirement or a long expected vacation. The idea of shelling out several thousand dollars for that tired old roof or the worn out siding may not sound like a top priority. All too often, cost inhibits progress. Here’s the great news! What if you could have both? Continue to save for those important goals on your priority list while also replacing your roof and protecting your home for years to come! With our newly enhanced financing options, our customers can take on those much needed home improvement projects without emptying their check books! Short-term low interest loans are available for those who appreciate paying off credit quickly. And for larger projects, we offer extended payment options with reasonable interest rates that can fit into almost anyone’s monthly budget. Don’t put off those much needed home upgrades any longer! Call and set up an appointment for a free estimate and the opportunity to discuss your financing options today.
Whether or not winter storm damage is covered by your homeowners insurance policy will depend on the type of policy you have and the type of damage that occurs.
Most standard homeowners insurance policies provide coverage for winter-related storm damage that occurs as a result of wind, snow, ice, freezing rain, and severe temperatures. You’ll want to review your homeowners policy to find out which wintertime perils are specifically covered.
It is important to note that standard homeowners insurance policies do not provide coverage for flood damage. So if your home has suffered damage from winter-related flooding (e.g., a heavy snow melt), you generally won’t be covered unless you have a separate flood insurance policy in place.
Finally, if your home suffers damage while you leave it unattended during the winter, you’ll have some additional issues to consider. For example, certain homeowners policies have exclusions for damages that result from a home not being properly winterized (e.g., not shutting off the water and draining the pipes) or a home being left unoccupied for a long period of time (e.g., more than 30 days).
While your insurance may provide some coverage for winter storm damage, the best option is to take steps to prevent winter-related damage from occurring in the first place. The following are some tips to help protect your home from harsh winter weather:
- Clean your gutters and downspouts so that melting snow can flow freely away from your home
- Inspect and repair roof shingles and flashing to prevent water damage
- Trim tree branches on your property
- Apply weather stripping and caulking around doors and windows and inspect storm doors and windows for broken glass
- Drain water from pipes leading to exterior faucets and remove garden hoses
- Insulate pipes that are susceptible to freezing
- Have your heating system cleaned and inspected
Call G. Fedale for a free damage assessment! Gfedaleroof.com
Your home is your most important investment. Protecting the beauty and value of your home is a top priority. Finding the right vinyl replacement windows may be one of the most important decisions you can make in caring for the well being of your house for years to come. Those old drafty windows not only impact your energy bills each month, but also leave many home owners at risk of potential leaks, further damage to the exterior and interior of their homes in inclement weather and more.
Homeowners in the snowier states spend their winters watching the white stuff accumulating on the roof—and possibly wondering if their house can bear all the weight. Here’s what you need to know.
Be Safe! Stop before you go up yourself. It is always recommended to call an insured expert when removing snow off a roof.
GFedaleroof.com or 302-225-7663
This winter we getting a lot more snow then expected. Over a foot of snow on some roofs. Made me wonder: How much snow is too much for a roof to handle? I wish there were a simple answer, but none exists. You can look for signs of an overloaded roof, though. I’ll explain those in a moment.
But first, to provide perspective, I want to answer the simple question: What is a roof? It’s a complex assembly of rafters and related structural members, trusses, the roof deck, and even the roofing material. Whether a roof can sustain a load without damage or collapse depends mainly on the depth and density of the snow, as well as the depth and spacing of the rafters and trusses. Other factors include the surface slope and texture, and the shape and location of the drift.
The ideal pitched roof is smooth and steep (so the snow slides off), and framed with closely spaced rafters (for strength). It also helps if the roof is in a sheltered area; the snow settles on it evenly, rather than being blown into large drifts (which can cause a roof to fail).
So, a risky roof is flat or slightly pitched, and in a location that is exposed to the wind. Shallow roofs adjacent to or below taller, steeper ones are especially vulnerable to a load of snow sliding down from above. For example, low-sloping roofs over porches, carports, and hastily built additions (which also often have undersized rafters) can be vulnerable when the snow flies.
Another hidden danger, according to Jeff Geary, a PM Homeowners Clinic contributor and an architect in Staten Island, N.Y., is a roof assembly from which collar ties have been removed. Located about one-third of the way down from the ridge, the supports connect the rafters and counter the spreading effect created by snow loads. “Many times I go into attics and find that homeowners have removed collar ties to get extra headroom, install a bedroom for the kids, or store holiday decorations,” Geary says. “Homeowners should know that collar ties are there for a reason.”
You know your roof may need bracing if the rafters are cracked from previous heavy snows or if they’ve been damaged by fire, termites, or rot. Obviously, you’ll need to take a look under the hood, so to speak, to find these conditions. Also, if the roof deck appears rotted, that points to a deeper problem. The roofing should be removed and the deck replaced.
If after a heavy snow you go into the attic and see that the rafters are severely bent by the weight of the snow above or if you hear cracking and popping, that’s reason to be concerned. Another bad sign: The house’s frame has moved enough to jam shut a door at the front or the back of the house. In this case consult a structural engineer about strengthening the roof assembly.
Regardless of your roof’s condition, remove drifts using a roof rake with an extension pole, or hire a pro for the job. Take care not to damage flashing or shingles; the goal isn’t to clear every flake, but rather to ease the load. Call us to help. G. Fedale has eased the snow load on many roofs. 302-225-7663
How a Roof Withstands Snow Loads
Fortunately, the vast majority of roofs don’t cave in, even when the weight of the snow on them exceeds what they’re designed to carry. Three primary factors help each rafter stand up to the load: A large moment of inertia, a small tributary area, and a brief duration.
RAFTER DEPTH AND MOI
Building codes specify that rafters withstand a snow load expressed in pounds per square foot (psf). The higher the psf snow-load requirement, the deeper the rafter must be (or the more closely spaced to its neighbors). A measure of a rafter’s bending resistance is its moment of inertia, or its inertial resistance to movement in the form of bending. The typical rafter’s MOI is more than enough to handle snow loads.
The roof deck collects the snow load and transfers the weight to the rafters. For any rafter, the portion of the roof deck that transfers this load is the tributary area. It extends outward in both directions from the center of the rafter’s thickness midway to the next rafter. Because rafters are typically spaced 16 inches on center, this amounts to 8 inches (in both directions) from the rafter’s center line. The smaller the area, the lighter the load each rafter carries.
For most roofs, the duration of a snow load is brief. If the roof had to carry a weight equivalent to a snow load all year without weakening, it would have to be much more robustly built. Within a few days of falling, most of the snow slides off, melts, or undergoes sublimation, the process by which it is transformed from ice crystals directly into vapor.
Content above is from this page provided by Popular Mechanics.
“Choose the Right Tool
Snow shovels vary in size and shape, but all can carry 1 to 1.5 cubic feet of the white stuff. Snow weighs from 7 pounds per cubic foot to an astounding 30 pounds per cubic foot, so one shovelful weighs 7 pounds to 45 pounds. With this in mind, the best shovel is one that you can handle easily. “Try a shovel before you buy it,” advises Joe Saffron, a marketing and product development manager at Ames True Temper, a manufacturer of shovels and gardening gear. “Wear the gloves you’ll use outside and dry-shovel, making the same motions you would to clear snow.” To that I would add: Consider buying more than one shovel. I have a large combination type for pushing and shoveling, and a smaller, lighter one for whittling down a big drift. I also use other tools (below).
1. 24-INCH SHOVEL
Better for shoveling than for pushing.
2. 18-INCH SHOVEL
Small blade size and offset handle reduce back strain.
3. SQUARE-NOSE SHOVEL
Good for scraping, removing ice-crusted snow.
4. COARSE-SURFACE BROOM
Quickly clears a dusting of light, dry snow.
5. ROUND-NOSE SHOVEL
Cuts through frozen berm left by snowplows.
Forged one-piece blade scrapes up ice. Can damage pavement when chopping.
7. ALUMINUM SCOOP
Rustproof; handles big drifts. No ergonomic benefit, though.
8. 30-INCH SHOVEL
Scoop-type blade works well for pushing/scraping or shoveling.
9. ROCK SALT
Works to 20 degrees F. So inexpensive, people over-apply.
10. CALCIUM CHLORIDE
Works to -25 degrees F. Costs roughly four times the price of rock salt.
EASY DOES IT
The fundamental rules are to move snow once, and move it the shortest distance possible (for more on this, see 16 Cardinal Rules for Snow Shovelling at popularmechanics.com). For a driveway, I clear a strip along one edge, then move snow from the center, across the cleared edge, and onto the grass. To avoid injury, I keep my back straight, knees bent, and feet shoulder-width apart. When I lift, sometimes I use the lower part of my thigh as a fulcrum point. I hold the shovel close to reduce the stress it exerts on me.”
SHOVELING SNOW OFF A ROOF
SNOW ON A ROOF CAN SOMETIMES BE DANGEROUS. WE HAVE ALL HEARD STORIES OF FLAT ROOFS CAVING IN BECAUSE OF THE HEAVY, ONE FOOT OF SNOW THAT JUST DUMPED IN OUR AREA. IN SOME CASES REMOVING THE SNOW IS YOUR BEST CHOICE. WHEN SHOVELING A ROOF I RECOMMEND CALLING A PROFESSIONAL ROOFER IN YOUR AREA WHO OFFERS THIS SERVICE. WWW.GFEDALEROOF.COM OFFERS MANY TYPES OF ROOFING SERVICES IN HARSH WEATHER CONDITIONS, SHOVELING SNOW IS ONE OF THEM, BUT IF YOU MUST, YOU WILL WANT TO BE SURE YOU ARE USING THE RIGHT TOOL; A FLEXIBLE PLASTIC SHOVEL. THIS WILL MINIMIZE THE DAMAGE DONE TO A ROOFS MATERIAL, WHICH COULD VOID THE WARRANTY OR CAUSE LEAKS.
Thank you Popular Mechanics.com for information and images above.
“Which Snow Shovel Is the Best?.” Popular Mechanics. N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2014. <http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/hand-tools/which-snow-shovel-is-the-best>.
With so many choices available to home and business owners today, discovering the best roofing contractor is an important and sometimes costly process. A few key questions should be answered in choosing the roofing contractor that best meets your needs.
1. Does the contractor have all of the appropriate licenses and proof of insurance? 2. Does the contractor have good ratings from the Better Business Bureau, Angie’s List or another reputable referral service?
3. Does the contractor have a list of references, pictures of completed work and established credibility in the community?
4. Does the contractor provide warranties, not only from the manufacturer for the roofing materials but also for his labor and installation?
5. Does the contractor provide written estimates, timely customer service and written detailed invoices? If you can answer “yes” to all of these questions, then you have found an excellent contractor! Here’s the great news: not only does G Fedale Roofing and Siding meet all of these qualifications, we surpass them!
Feel free to visit our website or give our office a call to have any of your questions answered before choosing what we already know is your best choice for a roofing contractor – G Fedale Roofing and Siding. We look forward to surpassing your expectations as well.
G. Fedale Roofing and Siding is making it easy to give a home improvement as a gift this holiday season. See below for the most recommended home improvement gift ideas for 2013!
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There’s a lot to cover when it comes to learning about what types of materials go into roofing a house. Some of it involves some pretty tricky terminology. Here are a few definitions that cover the basics.
The major function of a roof is really to protect the home from the elements — snow, rain, wind, etc. And this is why you need a roof that really performs, and how it performs depends upon how well it keeps out the elements.
The type of roof you have will determine how easily water — or the other elements — are diverted. But before we get into the types of roofs, we need to know the different components that make up a roof.
Underlayment — The underlayment of a roof is the black paper that’s laid over the plywood sheeting in order to seal the roof from damaging elements (snow, rain, ice, etc.). Nowadays many roofers use synthetic underlayments The use of a membrane is typically required, a waterproof membrane, a sweat sheet or vapor barrier — with the underlayment paper serving the triple function.
Flashing — Flashing on a roof refers to the metal pieces that are used to divert water from places where it might collect, such as hips and valleys. Flashing can be made from a variety of materials. You can use a galvanized flashing, Aluminum, a galvanized alloy, copper, lead coated copper or stainless steel. Each of these would work fine.
Shingles or Tile — The shingles or tiles make up the outermost part of the roof. Sitting atop the underlayment, they form the outermost barrier against the elements.
In residential roofing the same basic types of roof have been in sue for hundreds of years are still in use today. The shingle — or tile — has been in use for thousands of years, in fact. You can find intact tiles that have been in use 5,000 years.
Despite their history, however, shingles and tiles are just two among many types of materials you can use to cover the roof. Others include concrete, wood shingles or metal.
Trim — The trim protects the seams anywhere there is a roof, such as a hip or a ridge.
The Seven Design Elements of a Roof
Ridge — This is the highest point or peak of the roof.
Hip — This is the high point where two adjoining roof sections meet.
Valley — When two sections of the roof slope downward and meet, they create this third element — a valley.
Pitch — This refers to the slope or steepness of the roof.
Eaves — This refers to the part of the roof that hangs over the rest of the home.
Gables — These are the triangular portions of the ends of the home, which extend from the eaves to the peak of the roof.
Dormer — These are the sections of the home that extrude from the roof. They’re usually added as a way to bring light into an attic or the upper level of your home.
Some other terms or components to be aware of are nails, drip edges, starter strips and pipe collars.
Thank you HGTV for this Useful information